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Nobody looks for a new supplier for fun. You go because something broke. From there you have four ways in, and the difference is what each one costs you and how each one fails.
"We don't cover your area." It sounds final, but the brand just gave that distributor a different territory and gave yours to someone else. Here's how to find who, and why the nearest one isn't always cheapest.
Everyone says get a second supplier. For a handful of your products that's right. For the rest it costs you your price tier and protects you from nothing. Here's how to tell which is which.
Half the "electronics distributors" you find sell parts to factories, not products to resellers. Here's how to find the right ones.
A foreign brand gets into the US one of three ways, and if there's a US importer, its name is usually in public shipping records. Here's where to look.
Five checks to run before you buy a wholesale product. The first two are free and take three minutes, and most products fail them.
The brand, the distributor, or your account. Only one of those can be fixed by finding a new supplier. Here's how to tell.
There's a seller on your listing who never runs out. You can learn more about where they buy than you'd think, and one thing you never will.
You turn the box over and find four company names. One owns the brand, one built it, one distributes it. Here's how to tell which is which.
Local wholesale distributors mean faster shipping, lower freight costs, and a supplier you can actually visit. Six real ways to find them by state, from trade shows to state manufacturer registries.
Net-30 terms are trade credit, and distributors approve them on evidence, not optimism. What to have in place before you apply, why trade references outweigh credit scores, and how to earn terms as a new account.
The sellers who get suspended are almost never selling fakes. They bought real products the wrong way and couldn't show the trail when it mattered. The two sources that survive Amazon's checks, and the five shortcuts that end accounts.
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